Black Earth Creek
★ ★ ★ ★

Black Earth Creek V

By on April 7, 2017

Black Earth (The Shoe Box Landing) to Hudson Road
☆ ☆ ☆ ☆

A return trip with a new twist to one of our favorite places to paddle in the Madison area, with notable pros, mentionable cons and several relevant changes since we last paddled these portions of beloved Black Earth Creek.

Date:
March 19, 2017

Class Difficulty:
Half a dozen Class I rapids, ledges and one Class I-II chute.

Gradient:
8′ per mile

Gauge:
Black Earth: ht/ft: 2.30 | cfs: 65

Recommended Levels:
This is the recommended minimum level to avoid significant scraping.

Put-In:
The Shoe Box Landing, (back parking lot at Highway 14 and 78) Black Earth, Wisconsin
Take-Out:
Hudson Road, (the one west of Lions Park) Mazomanie, Wisconsin

Time: Put in at 2:30p. Out at 5:30p.
Total Time: 3h
Miles Paddled: 7.5

Wildlife: Bald eagles, muskrats, hawks, an exotic goose and three dogs.
Time worth driving to: 1 hour

Without ever intending to, we seem to paddle a certain stretch of Black Earth Creek every year in early spring, each time approaching it differently: adding something upstream or taking off a segment downstream. And each year has offered not only a different feel by changing things up, but the creek itself has been different on each occasion. The old adage is spot-on: you never do paddle the same river twice.

After exploring the entire creek a few years back, we’d decided that the best segment of it was in Mazomanie from Olson Road (by the high school) to Lions Park (in town). The only downside is that’s only 3.75 miles of paddling. After our exploratory trip on the last legs of Black Earth Creek before it meets up first with Blue Mound Creek and then the Wisconsin River – a trip that kinda sucked, honestly – we knew that there’s really no good reason to paddle past Blynn Road, the last bridge before the Wisconsin River. But even the miles between Lions Park and Blynn Road are only so-so, at least compared with other sections of the creek. Here, there are no more rapids, no more views of hills or valley panoramas, deadfall is problematic and Highway 14 runs directly parallel to the creek. Finally, we remembered with little nostalgia the portaging obstacle course from Cross Plains to Black Earth.

By chance, last year we met other paddlers on the creek who told us that the awful twin cattle fences between the “Miss U Hicks” railroad bridge and Olson Road had been thoughtfully altered in such a way as to allow paddlers to push forward through the fence without getting out of one’s boat (more on this below). They told us also that there’s good access behind The Shoe Box in Black Earth. Since then we’ve wanted to check out these promising leads and re-experience this section of the creek. From The Shoe Box to Olson Road are 2.75 miles, thus making for a fuller trip. And then just to bump it one more, we thought we’d try our luck taking out at Hudson Road, instead of Lions Park, to avoid schlepping boats and gear 300’ from the water to the park parking lot, which added another mile to this trip.

What we liked:
True enough, there’s a designated landing of sorts behind the The Shoe Box. No dock or anything but the banks are grassy and low, which makes accessing the water simple and easy. There’s an actual gateway composed of telephone poles. It is arguably the most unnecessarily tall gateway to a tiny creek, but it’s very cool that this is paddler-friendly. Even on a busy Sunday in spring, there was plenty of parking for our vehicles. There are no facilities outside, and there is a short schlep of about 150’ to the water.

The 2.75 miles from here to Olson Road offer a fun and pretty variation between tree canopy and open valley views, often with rock outcrop bluffs in the near distance. It’s mostly agricultural and meadowy, and you’ll hug Highway 14 for a few hundred yards. But the current is riffly and there are even a couple small playful rapids.

And yes, the otherwise infamous cattle fences are now paddler-friendly (though with a caveat). There are two fences about 8′ apart, parallel to one another. Each has a section of PVC pipes that swing forward. The logic here is the PVC sections still keep the cattle enclosed but allow paddlers to push forward and through the fences without getting out. This is a real improvement, since before you had to get out of your boat, knee-deep in the muddy water, push your boat underneath the fence, hold onto it still with one hand, then lift up the fence with your other hand enough to duck your body under – ideally without scraping your skin and warranting a tetanus shot, again all while not losing your boat. In short, it sucked. And there was no way to portage around or over the fence. So, now it’s much better – and much appreciated! The only caveat is the current is strong here, so if you don’t line the bow of your boat straight-on, getting through the PVC will be tricky (as one in our paddling party discovered, much to her chagrin). Also, the PVC pipes are pretty hard – they aren’t the lightweight flimsy kind. Be careful not to clobber your noggin going through.

A mile or so downstream from Olson Road, Black Earth Creek starts racing towards Mazomanie. It begins with a wee riffle here and there, then a small rapid and then it drops in earnest at one Class I-II chute followed immediately by an easier Class I rapid. And then it’s one mini-ledge after another for a couple miles of spectacularly splashy fun. It can’t be stressed or overstated: a succession of rapids for a couple of miles is quite a rarity in southern Wisconsin. That such a stream is so close to our own homes is the cherry on top. The peppy current is just so much fun! Especially as it’s surrounded by an awfully pretty landscape.

Commendable work has been done to make this corridor of the creek as recreationally friendly as possible. For one, there’s a new trail called Wolf Run. Even newer is a very pretty covered pedestrian bridge spanning the creek. That wasn’t there a year ago. A big, big thanks goes to the Wolf Family for donating land to the community, not to mention developers and volunteers having the vision and providing the labor. Furthermore, just after the Highway 14 bridge there’s a lovely little pavilion and public park at the Wolf Run trailhead. (Did we mention that there are exhilarating Class I rapids all along this stretch, too?)

When we first paddled the downtown Mazo segment in 2015 there was a nasty logjam at the railroad bridges. At the time there was only a 2-foot-wide gap between the bridge pylon and deadfall, which then led to a small drop of about 18”, a rather splashy and precarious obstacle. Well, that washed out in the years between. Today, you’d never know that such a hazard had existed. Even the 18” drop is a thing of the past.

From here to Lions Park the creek meanders like it means business. The banks are the tallest here, past the backyards of residential houses, than anywhere else on Black Earth Creek. While developed, the setting is still quite intimate; sometimes, the banks even resemble hollows. As of this writing, there was a new downed tree that you could glide or bump over (depending on the water level) on the far right. The current here is brisk, as is the case always when water goes around or under something. Another member of our paddling party didn’t see this obstacle or at least realize its hazard when it was too late; he got pinned, went sideways and capsized. (He stood up and was physically fine; the creek is shallow. And we rescued his paddle and his cooler holding our beer, thank you very much (you know, priorities). Alas, his phone made the unfortunate acquaintance with water. Yeah…

This wooded corridor is prone to downfall, since both banks are eroded and lined with creek-leaning trees. Conditions will be changing constantly here, depending on storms and strong winds, so be advised.

The final novelty was that the old pedestrian bridge at Lions Park has been removed!? Whether it will be replaced is an unknown, but it’s gone for now – as is the fun rapid that lied underneath it. In Timothy’s paddling guidebook, this marked the take-out for the Black Earth Creek trip (p. 247 for those following at home). However, there’s now a dedicated landing shortly downstream from where the bridge used to be, on river-left, with a marked sign stating “John’s Landing.” Thank you, John!

Finally, the creek pretty much calms down by this point in terms of current. The surrounding landscape opens up again and is mostly agricultural. It’s not much to write home about (or on the interwebs), but it’s a supremely pleasant, placid final mile – plenty of time to open up that last beer and distract yourself from the annoying harangue of having to replace your phone.

What we didn’t like:
For those who paddle just to escape and get away from the world for a while, the couple hundred yards between The Shoe Box landing and Olson Road where the creek runs parallel to Highway 14 might be an unwelcome distraction. We didn’t mind this, accepting it as par for the course, but one paddler in our party mentioned it, so we feel obliged to include that consideration here.

The PVC piping at the twin cattle fences can be a little tricky and unnerving. Again, it’s a huge improvement from how it used to be, but the hazard may not be suitable or just desired for some paddlers. If this is the case, just put in at Olson Road.

It’s worth recapitulating the always-changing nature of the creek between Highway 14 (entering Mazo) and Lions Park. Even though one paddler in our party did capsize here at an underestimated downed tree, this section isn’t inherently dangerous. But you will need to be cautious and mindful of the obstructions to dodge, duck under or ride over.

Finally, the made-do take-out at Hudson Road is crap, frankly. The banks are high and muddy, the gradient steep from there to the road itself. It’s not a deal-breaker, but all things considered, it isn’t a very good place to end or begin a trip.

If we did this trip again:
We’ll definitely do this trip again. Probably more often than once a year in spring at that. We won’t take out at Hudson Road, since the access is pretty dodgy. Taking out at John’s Landing at Lions Park looks much easier, and there isn’t anything essential in terms of the landscape or the paddling environment one would be forfeiting by skipping the skimpy mile to Hudson.

***************
Related Information:
Black Earth Creek Overview: Black Earth Creek Paddle Guide
Black Earth Creek I: Walking Iron Park to Blynn Road
Black Earth Creek II: Blynn Road to Arena
Black Earth Creek III: Cross Plains to Black Earth
Black Earth Creek IV: Black Earth to Walking Iron Park
Miles Paddled Video: Black Earth Creek: Walking Iron Park to Blynn Road
Miles Paddled Video: Black Earth Creek: Blynn Road to Arena
Map: Black Hawk Trail

Map:


Shuttle Information:
5.2 miles along Highway 14. A more scenic stretch follows Highway 78 but adds only half a mile. There’s a bike shuttle trail option for a portion of this, along the awesome Wolf Run Trail.

Photo Gallery:

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  • Justin Meyer

    Thanks for posting this report. A friend and I paddled your route from the Shoe Box to Lion’s Park on 4/9/17 at 70 cfs and a gauge height of 2.35. These were great conditions and we encountered little scraping and a lot of fun riffles and drops.

    A couple of notes for future paddlers:
    1. Beware the cattle gate! Consider walking your boat through as it is shallow there. Due to a pushy current, strong wind, and generally not being a great paddler I got partially sucked under the metal part of the fence resulting in a minor scrape on my leg. The problem is that the gate is so narrow that you have to aim your kayak just right and then, at the very last second, get your paddle parallel with the kayak so it will fit through. I understand that the farmer doesn’t want the cows to get loose but I’m not sure why the gates can’t be twice as wide and lined up with each other.
    2. This paddle has a nice bike shuttle. We took KP for a relatively flat five mile ride. If I did this again I would try Wolf Run Trail to Olsen Road to KP to use the trail but stay off of 14.

  • A couple things from friend of Miles Paddled, Gaila and her husband, who have been working on the fence and the love of BEC in general. They are working for paddlers and with the farmer to find an easy and navigable solution.

    “#1. John Wick of Wick Buildings has been helping lots with the creek…. the Mazomanie Village folks cleared debris near the creek and seeded it and now there is enough room for almost 15 cars to park near John’s Landing. Shoe Box helped with the put-in too.

    #2. As for the cattle fence… We are from Black Earth and know the farmer. He agreed to let us experiment with a ‘gate’ that my husband had thought up and after two attempts. My husband and I put the ‘gates’ in their present location… it wasn’t easy either because we are mid to late 60-ish folks and it was hard work. The brown swiss cows that use that walkway are some ‘high end’ cows so we wanted to make sure that they would not want to escape, so the gates are pretty substantial.

    When it warms up we hope to get some younger folks to help us widen the gates and use thinner PVC pipe, but the water has to warm up first because it takes lots of time to cut and move and hook up the existing fence pieces and then to draw the ‘PVC gate’ as taut as we can. We know it needs improvement but it sure beat the alternative… which we have done.

    Also if folks don’t have the skills to shoot through the first gate they can always get out of their boat and pull it through because it is shallow.”

  • William Petersen

    NIce to see something has been done with the cattle crossing. Streams, all waters, are state owned. They should not be blocked off. I encountered the fence, in winter, with my wife and kids (all experienced paddlers). The hog fence was loaded with debris, and it was wired shut! In fast cold water, we had to come to a stop, unwire the damn fence, lift the canoes up and over and squeeze through the gate. Not a pleasant experience! If one is going to block waterways, there should at least be a portage. Thank you for the effort to make a working passageway. Except for the fence, we thought this to be a fun little section.

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